I want the tripe stewed in spicy tomato sauce, the best way Romans do it, have been accessible on a regular basis. It’s not, however the meatballs virtually at all times are, and they’re fantastic, made with sufficient bread that they’re extraordinarily tender in a brilliant marinara. One other dependable discover is a sandwich of some type, made with plain, untopped pizza. Twice I’ve had a heat mortadella sandwich there, and each occasions I used to be satisfied there was no method to enhance on it.
One dish was denoted on the menu by a single phrase: beans. I’ve considered it almost day-after-day since, partly as a result of the beans — scarlet runners — have been completely intact however completely tender; partly due to the brooding depth they took on from being completed with candy pink peppers that the kitchen dried and fried, an ingredient the Italians name peperoni cruschi; and partly as a result of their broth tasted so good when given an opportunity to soak into the slice of thick-crusted sourdough bread that got here on high. That bread is Mr. Easton’s, too. It comes with loads of issues, and it’s wonderful.
Bread and Salt continues to be settling into New Jersey. Some elements could also be higher when Mr. Easton has had time to infiltrate the native farm scene. In August, when the state was rolling in juicy peaches, he was serving crunchy unripe ones in pink wine for dessert. There was additionally a really unusual cantaloupe pudding. By September issues have been wanting up; sooner or later there was a scoop of Tristar strawberry sorbet served with anise-seed-flecked polenta gelato, each made by Superiority Burger. (Mr. Easton is pleasant with that restaurant’s proprietor, Brooks Headley, and helped devise the recipe for the focaccia Superiority Burger serves on Fridays.)
Though Mr. Easton has a handful of workers, Bread and Salt has among the blind spots of a one-person operation. It’s not the best restaurant to speak with, having an Instagram account however no web site or cellphone. On a latest Sunday, when the restaurant was speculated to open at 1 p.m., an indication on the entrance door introduced that it could be delayed till 1:30. That was the final communiqué; the doorways weren’t unlocked till 2.
However Mr. Easton has a singular imaginative and prescient, and it’s the purpose the meals is so compelling. Trying round on the place, you’re unsure the way it can hold going like this. However then the plates begin to come out of the kitchen and also you don’t need them ever to cease.